Kokkinovrachos multi-pitches

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The route is new so maybe there are still soil and flimsy rocks. Climb carefully. A helmet is necessary. 

 

 

Approach

From the bottom:

Take the road to Vaskina and turn right, on the second sharp curve, in a dirty road, towards the water tank of Leonidio. The path starts on the left about 250m later and it is marked with red dots. about 40min.

 

ABSEIL BACK DOWN

 

The new abseils of Aramis are now the best way down around with a 80 m rope. The first abseil, near a tree on the ridge at the top of the wall (ledge, ropes and bolts), is easy to find with the name of Aramis. The vertical wall here is about 170 m high, make five obvious abseils straight down: down Aramis 38 m, 25 m, 27 m, then off Aramis, 40 m, 40 m.

 

A. Pillar of Fire, 6a+, 190m

all anchors and bolts had been rebolted by Giannis Torelli & Aris Theodoropoulos (2014).

Mixed. Use one set of friends (No. 1 - 4), nuts (No. 1 - 4) and 2-3 long slings (eg. 2x120cm, 1x60cm) for the ascent.

 

Original line by D. Sotirakis & A. Theodoropoulos on april 8th, 1987.

 

P1: 6a, 40m, 2 bolts, Start right side of the pillar in a dihedral, followed by a crack.

P2: 5c, 20m, 1 piton

P3: 6a, 40m, 6 bolts, loose rock, Thin crack leads to a wider crack in a corner.

P4: 6a+, 35m, 4 bolts, 2 pitons, follow the thin crack and after traverse to the right to reach the anchor, whereas the natural line leads you left

P5: 6a, 35m, 3 bolts, 1 piton.Traverse 3m right on the ledge. If you want keep on going to the next anchor since it's an easy 15m route.

P6: 5a, 15m, 2 bolts, corner - ramp.

P7: walk up the balcony between bushes

P8: 5c, 30m, 4 bolts, climb slightly right of the flag. Unfortnutaley the book of ascents can't be found.

 

 

Left variation (unknown date & name):

Mixed. Use one set of friends (No. 1 - 4), nuts (No. 1 - 4) and 2-3 long slings (eg. 2x120cm, 1x60cm) for the ascent.

P1: 6a, 40m, anchor is 2 bolts

P2: 6b, 20m, 5 bolts

P3: 6b, 20m, either go right and up - 1 bolt or go straight up the crack - no bolt

 

continue "Pillar of Fire" P4 till the top.

 

at best rapell down another route on the right, like Plug'n'Play, Aramis, ...

 

B. no name

multi-pitch by Remy brothers. Bolted in february 2016

 

C. Plug and Play, 7a+

7 pitches, 180m, about 100 bolts.

An 80 meter rope, 13 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

You can abseil from the same route with an 80 meter rope. 6 abseils, linking P3 and P2 together.

P1 : 6b+

P2 : 7a+

P3 : 6b+

P4 : 7a

P5 : 6b+

P6 : 6a+

P7 : 6a+

 

Route by : Jonas B. and Richard G.

 

1. Fasting Therapy, 8a

5 pitches, 180m

A full single traditional rack is necessary.

All the belay anchors are equiped with 2 bolts. On the photo "x" means "bolt".

P1 : 6c, 25m, 2 bolts

P2 : 6b+, 25m, 2 bolts

P3 : 7b+, 30, 5 bolts

P4 : 7a, 40m, 5 bolts

P5 : 8a, 40m, 7 bolts

 

Route and info by: Jiannis Torelli

 

2. Portal Therapy, 7a

6 pitches, 180m

Mixed: trad gear and few bolts. A full rack of friends and cams is necessary.

Starting just left of Aramis until the roof. Traversing left below the roof, then up till the top.

Opened ground up on 12 - 13. 3. 2014 by Stamatis Konstantakopoulos & Kostas Vrohidis who spent the night sleeping in the wall in a protaledge.

https://vimeo.com/90333293

 

3. Aramis, 6c

6 pitches, 170m.

An 80 meter rope, 15 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

You can abseil from the same route with an 80 meter rope. 5 abseils 38m, 25m, 27m, 40m, 40m

P1 : 6b+

P2 : 6b+

P3 : 6b

P4 : 6b+

P5 : 6b+

P6 : 6c

 

Route by: Claude, Yves Remy and Christof Simeon

 

4. Ura Ka, 6c+

5 pitches, 185m, about 65 bolts 

A single 100m rope or two 50m ropes, 18 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

The abseil line is just on the left of the top out of the route. 5 abseils, 40m, 40m, 35m, 35m, 25m

P1 : 6b, 35m

P2 : 6c+, 40m

P3 : 6c, 40m

P4 : 6c, 30m

P5 : 6b, 40m

 

Route by: Claude and Yves Remy, Christophe Simeon

Source: Claude Remy, Spielplatz der Goetter, Klettern, March- April 2014

 

5. Ramisi Rock, 6c+

6 pitches, 185m, about a 100 bolts.

A single 100m rope or two 50m ropes, 14 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

The abseil line is just on the left of the top out of the route Ura ka. 5 abseils, 40m, 50m, 25m, 30m, 35m

P1 : 6b

P2 : 6c+

P3 : 6b+

P4 : 6b+

P5 : 6b+

P6 : 6b

 

6. 6a+ Open Gate, a single route by Remy's and I. Metaxotos

be very careful because 2 multi-pitches are right above you.

7. Mira, 6b

8 pitches, 190m, about 100 bolts

An 80 meter rope, 15 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

You can abseil from the same route with an 80 meter rope. 5 abseils.

 

P1: 6a+, 36m

P2: 6b, 20m

P3: 6b, 20m

P4: 6b, 20m

P5: 6a+,  15m

P6: 6a,   36m

P7: 5c,   20m

P8: 5c,   20m

still the Exit 1 doesnt have an ankor to rappel down.

 

Variations:

after P6: go straight up. The variation goes straight up to 'Exit 1'.

P7': 6b+, 25m

Or choose any route of sector Megakante.

As an alternative use the 55m direct-rappel on the right side with a twin rope.

Or using an 80m rope you can rappel on the left the routes Aramis, Plug'n'Play, ...

 

Route by: Claude, Yves Remy and Christof Simeon

 

8. Mignonette, 5c

7 pitches, 175m

An 80 meter rope, 15 quick draws and helmets are necessary.

You can abseil from the same route with an 80 meter rope. 6 abseils. Or over Aramis.

P1: 5a, 30m

P2: 2, 20m

P3: 3, 25m

P4: 5c, 20m

P5: 5c,  25m

P6: 5c,   35m

P7: 5c,   20m

 

Route by: Jonas Jägermayer & Rico Schumann

 

 

 

8. MEGA KANTE finish. (bolted new year 2015/16)

1. Megakante 8b45m 11 QDs starts from left new ankor Veit Althoff, Felix Berg
2.The Abyss8a 45m12 QDsstarts from left new ankorMichael Schreiber, Felix Bergfirst dihedral, followed by tufas and 1-2 finger pockets, then crack, and at last jugs till the top slab.
3.8c+30m  9 QDs       starts from Mira ankor: P6Felix Bergup the blank belly on the right side, excellent rock
 

 

From bottom:

climb Mira, at the starting ankor of pitch 7, traverse few easy meters to the ankor on the left. 

From top: Drive up by car towards Vaskina. On the top of the plateau of Kokkinovrachos take the first dirt road to your right which starts just behind a tree. After 200m park and work towars the cliff, being left of the tall greek flag. Walk towards the abseil ankor of Mira and abseil to the new left ankor below the overhang OR abseil down directly from the finishing ankor of 'The Abyss' on the slab below the block with a rappel sling around it. Choose one of the 3 routes that finish at this ankor. While rappeling down, clip in the quickdraws and your rope inside in order to reach the starting ankor at the dihedral below the large overhang.

!tie a knot in both ends of the rope!  

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